Ann &
Michael Martini, GoLocalProv Food Editors
Ah, the arguments
we know this one will incite. Alas, when we heard recently that local hot
wiener joints closed in honor of the death of the patriarch of the Olneyville
System wiener family, we knew it was time to round up Rhode Island’s best. As
tough as it was to decide, we think we’ve found Rhode Island’s top dogs, or
most of them, anyway. Burp.
Olneyville New York System,
Providence
They say the art of prepping wieners “up the arm” of the
guy assembling them behind the counter began in the 1940s on Coney Island. In
that circus-like atmosphere, food vendors would compete for attention and
sales. Well, if the art has been perfected anywhere, it’s a this wiener top
spot (“It adds flavor,” Ann’s dad always says). Not that they need it. The
“sauce” – a tangy concoction of meat and tomatoes and spices that goes on top
is the best of the bunch here at this iconic joint. Expect to see anyone from
Buddy Cianci to Patrick Kennedy to your local general assemblyman belly up to
the counter. Back when Showtime’s “Brotherhood” series used to film here, the
cast and crew would almost clean the place out of wieners regularly. Almost. 20
Plainfield St, 621-9500
Wien-o-Rama, Cranston
If there is, in Rhode Island, a haute hot wiener, this is
where you find it. Wien-o-Rama has something of a cult following among loyals
that includes top local chefs and food lovers who won’t get them anywhere else.
We think it has something to do with the dog itself, made from beef and pork,
tucked into a steamed bun and topped off with a rich and tasty sauce – meatier
than most – mustard and fresh onions. There is something decidedly
palate-pleasing about the combination. Prepare to queue up however – the lines
here can be long and seating is limited, so it’s best to get these dogs to go.
If you must deviate from the menu, the burgers here are quite good too, in a
wiener-joint kind of way. 1009 Oaklawn Ave, 943-4990
Smith Street New York System,
Providence
What makes a wiener best? Dare we say it might be the
freshness of the toppings? Okay, maybe that’s a stretch. But if not, consider
this: Olneyville New York System goes through tens of thousands of wieners a
month. So on any given day, you can be assured that the dog that you order at
this institution will be as tasty as they come. A fresh snap from the wiener
itself, lots of sauce and celery salt, mustard, onions. Heartburn follows and
is oh, so worth it. One must order them “all the way” here or the counter help
will look at you like you’re a Yankee Fan in Red Sox Nation. Don’t know what
“all the way” means? You can stop reading now, then. 424 Smith St, 331-5349
Cosmic Steak and Pizza,
Warwick
We have been eating the wieners at Cosmic since we were
in, ahem, high school. And a visit to this Warwick institution, which has been
proudly serving great grub since 1976, on a recent Saturday night shows not
much has changed. Teens and families wait patiently at the counter for the
plethora of tasty treats on the menu: everything from fresh salads to baked
pastas to steak sandwiches to pepperoni pies to hot wieners. And, oh the
wieners are top-notch. The buns are always properly steamed-never a tough or
waterlogged bun to be had here. The meat sauce is terrific and we always end up
with some crispy fries to go along with the tasty wieners. These babies have
that “snap” that you look for in a good wiener.1141 Post Rd, 781-5410 www.cosmicri.com
Rod's Grill, Warren
The Rodriguez
family has been building hot wieners here using the same recipe for more than
50 years. The grandkids run it now using the same recipes Grandma Rodriguez
used. Rod’s is a townie kind of place, a greasy spoon that serves up cheap eats
and everybody knows everybody else’s name. We’re talking traditional comfort
food here. Large portions to fill the fishermen and other blue collar workers
bellies are the norm. The family takes great care to make you feel like you are
a long lost relative. We like our wieners here with a little extra mustard and
extra meat sauce. Don’t forget to add some fries on the side and a coffee milk
never hurt anyone! 6 Washington St, Warren, 245-9405